Here on the island, we are gearing up for Christmas with plenty of snowy and/or gray and rainy days. Luckily we held our annual Christmas open house
From my office window I am watching Christmas lights twinkle through the pine trees, and down on the dock our Charlie Brown Christmas tree is shining brightly in the late-afternoon gloom. Two big ice storms lately have knocked it down twice, but now we have it lashed down tightly and will hope it stays upright for the rest of the season.
A large flock of wild turkeys has been visiting lately, no doubt attracted by goodies in the bird feeders. In the morning their tracks mix with those of deer and the neighbors cats and an occasional animal we can’t identify. I have a feeling our quiet yard is anything but quiet at 3AM.
I wish everyone peace and happiness as you prepare for the winter holidays, however you choose to celebrate them. And remember, if you are looking for a getaway, there are few places more beautiful than Maine under a light dusting of December snow!
First Snowfall on a Small Maine Island
Just 10 days into November and we’ve already had a substantial snowfall here on my small Maine island. It’s always a little dicey when snow arrives before we’re in a winter frame of mind, but being New Englanders, we always manage to cope.
Fewer than 100 of us remain on the island now, with summer residents having moved on to their winter quarters in warmer climates. We’re too far off the beaten path for all but the most intrepid late-fall tourist. And so the island folds back into itself. The little local church has a harvest fair coming up in a couple of weeks, the tiny year-round cafe bustles with locals drinking coffee in the morning, and our charming library is doing a booming business in mysteries as people stop in for books (the old-fashioned kind, with pages!). It’s definitely a time of transition as we move from the bright colors of early fall to the grays and browns of November. The first snow didn’t last long, but the next one is sure to linger
Photo: (c) Karen Hammond
New Brunswick, Canada, Part 2. St. Andrews
Funky art galleries and craft stores featuring clever, handmade items line the streets, while a charming mural brightens the outer wall of the local drugstore. St. Andrews, New Brunswick, is a worthwhile stop on its own and an easy add-on for those traveling to Campobello. As with the island, fall is a great time to visit. Summer tourists are mostly gone, the weather remains bright and sunny most days, and the small town of about 1800 residents is quietly settling back into itself.
First, check out that handsome mural at 192 Water St. Designed and painted by local artists Andrea Mulder-Slater and Jantje Blokhuis-Mulder, it’s a startling rendition of the exact area where you are standing. Next, stroll along the nearby waterfront and choose among several restaurants for lunch. Afterward, you’ll want to wander into the town’s many galleries and shops.
Those with an interest in architecture won’t be disappointed. Many of the homes here were moved from what is now Castine, Maine, just after the American Revolution. Many Loyalist families dismantled their homes and transported them, sometimes by water, north to St. Andrews in order to remain under the British crown.
If you can’t visit in the fall, springtime in St. Andrews is also a great time to enjoy the town before the summer bustle. Gardeners should plan a lengthy stop at Kingsbrae Garden (www.kingsbraegarden.com). Named one of Canada’s top-ten public gardens, it will open again in mid-May. Among its themed gardens are a Bird and Butterfly Garden, Rose Garden, Rhododendron and Hydrangea Gardens, an eerily beautiful White Garden (try to see it at dusk), as well as a labyrinth maze, intriguing sculptures, and much more. Kingsbrae is also home to alpacas, peacocks, ducks, and other animals.
In addition, Kingsbrae boasts one of the best restaurants in Canada, Savour in the Garden (www.savourinthegarden.com). I recently had one of the best meals of my life there, enjoying a tasting menu that highlighted local seafood in such dishes as Jonah Crab Cakes with champagne vinaigrette. A clever lobster presentation called Lobster and Pearls included local lobster, couscous, and roasted carrot puree. The menu changes regularly according to what is fresh, but you can check out a sample menu on the website.
On November 17 from 5-9 PM, on Water St. in the heart of town
I can recommend the Algonquin Hotel as a place to stay. Open year round, the hotel and resort recently underwent expansive remodeling. Among the amenities are an elegant spa and, for warm-weather visitors, a challenging golf course. But before we pick up our golf clubs again, we have to get through the fall holidays and the upcoming winter. The Algonquin is offering a “Twas the Month Before Christmas” event from November 28-29 that includes meals and crafting, decorating, and wine-pairing classes. Find the details at algonquinresort.com. It sounds like a great way to kick off the holiday season.
New Brunswick, Canada. Part 1. Campobello
Campobello Island is quiet now, with just a few visitors on these last, bright autumn days. The big draw here is the summer home of Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt, which closes for the season on October 18. The surrounding Roosevelt Campobello International Park, jointly administered by the US and Canada, is open year round, however, and in late fall is a glorious spot for walking along forest trails and enjoying the dramatic ocean scenery.
Strolling the grounds, you’ll soon understand why the Roosevelt family vacationed here for decades. FDR was just a year old in 1883 when he first came to Campobello with his parents, James and Sara. As an adult he loved spending summers on the island with his wife, Eleanor, and their children, swimming, biking, playing tennis, and sailing in Passamaquoddy Bay. Sadly, it was also here where, in 1921, he fell ill after a vigorous day of hiking and swimming and was ultimately diagnosed with polio. With decreased mobility, his visits became less frequent. After he became president, he managed just three more trips to Campobello, in 1933, 1936, and 1939, but his “beloved island,” always remained close to his heart.
The 34-room cottage itself, a bright vision in red and green, opens annually on the Saturday before Memorial Day. Unlike many historic homes, virtually everything in the house is original to it, including furniture, toys, and such homey objects as an unfinished piece of knitting. It’s easy to imagine its creator hurriedly putting it aside to join the rest of the family for a swim or a picnic.
For now, however, if your fall travels take you to northern Maine, cross the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial Bridge from Lubec to the park and enjoy the quiet natural beauty
There’s lots more to explore nearby, as New Brunswick is a delight in any season. We’ll discuss more in a future post.
Fall on a Small Maine Island
A busy schedule and a family illness have kept me away from my blog for a bit, but I’ll be working to catch up. Fall has fully arrived in Maine, and here on the island it’s one of the prettiest I can remember. The maples are just coming into their peak color and the contrast against the evergreens is spectacular. Every doorway, including my own, is sporting some kind of fall decoration as we transition from the bright colors of summer to fall’s more earthy tones. I love redecorating for the seasons, and if I hadn’t become a writer, I probably would have worked as an interior decorator. It’s really a stress reliever to swap
around everything from pillows to pictures as the seasons change.
Meanwhile, most of our summer residents and visitors have departed, although a few will remain until Columbus Day. Things are definitely quieter as the island settles in for the fall months and the long winter ahead. One of our two island stores has closed for the season; the other has changed hands, but fortunately will continue to remain open throughout the year.
I’m looking out my office window at a maple that is blazing scarlet in the late afternoon sun. I’ll enjoy every minute of October, which is always a lovely month here. As I’ve written before, I’ve never liked gloomy November, except for the wonderful Thanksgiving holiday.
If you’re looking for something to do in Maine over the holiday weekend, I can suggest the Damariscotta Pumpkinfest on the midcoast, a great family event. I attended last year with some young family members who loved every minute. The painted giant pumpkins created by local artists are quite a sight, and the pumpkin races (yes, people really race on the Damariscotta River in hollowed-out giant pumpkins) are a hoot. For more info go to damariscottapumpkinfest.com.
Late Summer in Maine
I like to hold on to every possible moment of summer, so I’m not quite ready to give in to fall yet. After all, there are still nearly three weeks of the best season of the year to enjoy!
Here on my small Maine island we’ve had wonderful weather for the past two weeks. The sun is shining brightly today after a foggy start this morning, and there’s still plenty of beach, boating,
(c) Karen Hammond
Fall in New England has its own special charm, of course, but I’m going to enjoy these waning days of summer before I start thinking about pumpkins and fall holidays. How about you?
August on a Small Maine Island
I just returned from a long sail along the coast of Maine from Portland to Bar Harbor with lots of stops at small villages in between, among them, Boothbay Harbor, Bucksport, Castine, Rockland, Rockport, and Belfast. Each place has its own charm, so it would be impossible to pick a favorite.
All too soon summer people here on the island will be packing up for the trip back to wherever they spend the rest of their lives and the island will turn back into a quiet village of 100 souls who will start preparing for the fall holidays and then for a long winter ahead. But there’s time to think of that later. Right now it’s time to finish up the day’s work in my office, do a little weeding in the garden, pack a picnic, and head for the beach for a late-day swim.
Enjoy the fleeting days of summer, and if you have a favorite Maine vacation spot, please let me know and we can share it with other readers.
Life on a small Maine Island — July
Perhaps this summer you’ll travel to midcoast Maine and visit some of the islands that attract so many writers and artists. Monhegan, “the artists’ island” is perhaps the best known, with seasonal ferry service from Boothbay Harbor, New Harbor, and Port Clyde (in winter, there’s only service out of Port Clyde). But there are other wonderful islands to explore, including Isle au Haut, Matinicus, and several islands in Casco Bay, off Portland. Don’t expect big-city amenities, but do expect comfortable lodgings, New England comfort food, and a chance to see a part of Maine that many visitors miss. If you plan to stay overnight, do make advance reservations since hotel or B&B rooms are limited.
If islands are not your thing, try a drive along the midcoast region and explore some of the fishing villages like New Harbor and Tenants Harbor for a look at a traditional Maine way of life.
From my office on my own little island I’m looking out at glass-calm seas, with sailboats scooting along and lobster boats starting to come into port with the day’s catch. The little village is bustling — at least compared to winter when there are only 100 of us out here — and it’s nice to see summer residents and visitors in town again. By September most will be gone and the island will fold back into itself. Life ebbs and flows on my small Maine island, much like the tides that surround us.
I hope everyone is having a great summer thus far and one that will include a trip to this lovely part of the country. Enjoy!
Summer on a Small Maine Island
From my office window, I’m watching the lobstermen come and go over water that today is bright blue and tranquil. But I know how quickly that can change and how hard they all work every day. It’s the start of the busy season for them as well, hauling up thousands of pounds of lobsters to feed hungry travelers to Maine. Last week I took my visitors to see a rare blue lobster that had just been caught nearby. A bright, crystal blue, to me they’re the prettiest of the occasional lobster oddities that crop up — there are also yellow (very rare), calico, red (before cooking), and even albino lobsters, and even some that are half one color and half another. With the exception of the albino lobsters, they all turn red in the cooking pot….not that the rare ones will be eaten. Almost always they are donated to an aquarium for educational purposes.
I’ll be back soon with more news about summer in Maine and some highlights from my recent Canada jaunt. Happy summer everyone! It’s all too fleeting, so enjoy every moment!
Pemaquid Point Lighthouse
Several people have asked for more information about Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, proving that summer really is around the corner and we’re all making plans at last! The lighthouse is located in New Harbor, Maine, 
Photo (c) Nathaniel Hammond
Built in 1827, the lighthouse was first illuminated with whale oil during the heyday of the New England whaling industry, and later by kerosene. It was automated in 1934, ending a need for a lighthouse keeper and his family to be on the premises at all times. If you visit, check out the brick building for the fog bell. When dense fog rolled in, as it often does here, early keepers rang the bell by hand. Later a steam system was set up to ring the bell, and later still, a system of weights. When you see the rugged cliffs on which the lighthouse stands, you’ll understand why mariners appreciated both the light and the bell on the foggy evenings for which Maine is so well known.
Enjoy your visit, and perhaps you’ll even see the resident ghost, a red-haired woman who is said to haunt the keeper’s house from time to time!
Thanks for stopping by, and best wishes to everyone for a happy and thoughtful Memorial Day weekend.