Karen Hammond

Here we are, just a bit more than a week into March, and we’ve seen just about every kind of weather there is to see, with the exception of hail.  March roared in with 9 inches of snow falling on our little island, much to my excitement as I was finally able to get out on snowshoes and cross-country skis after this mostly mild and snow-free winter. Then came the rains and washed it all away! And today it is sunny–almost shirtsleeve weather–with blue skies and puffy white clouds sailing by.  That’s New England weather for you.

I just returned from several days in Boston (yesterday it was in the ’60s there), one of my favorite cities anywhere. No matter how many times I hike the Freedom Trail or visit the fabulous museums, I’m struck by the history and the amazing art and intellectual ambiance.  And of course the food is fabulous.  The most memorable meal of this trip was at Toscano on Charles Street where I over-indulged in terrific Italian food. It’s an easy walk from Downtown Crossing, once the premier shopping area in Boston, which is due for a major overhaul soon. Downtown Crossing already has a mega-Macy’s store, and other department stores are scheduled to move in. I lived in Boston in the days when Filene’s and Jordan Marsh ruled the area, so I’m happy to see it perking up again.  For anyone wanting to stay in downtown Boston, I’m happy to recommend the Omni Parker House. This very old  but beautifully maintained and modernized hotel has every amenity, reasonable prices, and is truly in the heart of the city.  It’s steps from most of the major historic sites and the Freedom Trail passes right by the front door.  Even if you’re just in Boston for the day, pop into the lobby and check out the elegant dark oak paneling and the brass elevator doors. Very chic! More later on this great place to stay and other things to see and do in Boston (and, of course, in Maine in the spring!).

While researching an article this morning, I came across this wonderful quote from the philosopher Lao Tzu (604-531 BC):

“In dwelling, live close to the ground. In thinking, keep to the simple. In conflict, be fair and generous. In governing, don’t try to control. In work, do what you enjoy. In family life, be completely present.”

Although his words come from a vastly different time and culture,  they  really speak to life in New England and, especially, to life in Maine.  Here we might paraphrase his words  to Live without ostentation and close to nature.  Avoid complicating life unnecessarily.  Be empathetic and kind to all, especially that neighbor you may not particularly like.  Give everyone a chance to show what he or she can accomplish.  Work at something you enjoy, even if it doesn’t bring great material awards, and at the end of the work day, leave your job behind and be there for your loved ones.

Nice words to contemplate in the middle of our busy lives. I hope this quote brightens your day as much as it has brightened mine.

 

Long, gray winters can make even the most cheerful of  us a little cranky.  Here in Maine a good respite is a trip to one of the little cafes or diners that stay open all year round. I like Harborside Cafe in the tiny fishing village of  South Bristol, where you can enjoy breakfast fit for a stalwart fisherman or a lunch of shrimp stew or chicken pot pie — dishes that are just-like-mom-used-to-make delicious.  And of course this somewhat isolated village at the end of a 12-mile peninsula is home to lots of residents whose families have lived  here forever and have retained very cool coastal Maine accents.  Pour your own coffee, flip open a newspaper, and settle in.

And of course there’s the iconic Moody’s Diner on Route 1 in Waldoboro, which celebrates its 85th anniversary this year. In 1927 P.B. Moody built 3 cabins, charging $1 a night for overnight guests. By 1934 he had 18 cabins and a small takeout cart and present-day Moody’s Diner had been launched. Moody’s is open very early for breakfast, one of the best times to be here. But it’s also fun at lunch and supper (and it’s definitely supper, not “dinner”!).  Watch for the  daily specials, with a focus on comfort food like hot turkey sandwiches and pot pies,  and the dessert pies that are deservedly famous.  Thirty-one members of the Moody family still work at the diner. It’s truly a Maine institution and fun to visit at any time of year — especially on a dreary day when you’re feeling a little, um, moody.

When people learn that I live on a small Maine island, the inevitable first question is, “What do you do in winter?”  Um, shovel? Actually this winter, I’ve done very little of that since it’s been so mild.

Seriously, life here is much like life in any small Northeastern town in winter. We work, hang out at the one cafe in town, gossip at the post office, carp about the weather, and keep putting one LL Bean-booted foot in front of the other until April. I’m always amused, though, that the summer people who live here seem to think the town rises, Brigadoon-like, from the mist–or perhaps the snow drifts–every spring. It’s beyond their comprehension that anyone actually lives here all winter–and by choice.

Our little secret is that they don’t know what they’re missing. After the holidays the town settles in on itself and it’s a great time to take on  a major project, whether it’s writing  a new book or cleaning out the attic. Soon enough the summer people will be rumbling across the bridge that connects us to the mainland and a new cycle of life here on the island will begin. For now, though, we’re happy with peace and quiet, a little snowshoeing now and then, and an occasional bean supper at the church — all 100 of us hardy souls.

Yes, January is cold in Maine, but out here on my little island it’s a sparkling day with light glinting off the ocean like so many gems.  There’s much to do in Maine at this time of year, from skiing and skating to enjoying the fabulous restaurants. It’s easy to get here, too, by car or on the Downeaster train from Boston–a truly great way to travel–or by bus from Boston to Portland and then to points north.  With the crowds of tourists gone, it’s a wonderful time  to experience the state as the locals do. Those of us who live here year-round know that winter is one of our best-kept secrets.

Most readers thinking of a Maine vacation are probably envisioning sparkling summer skies and lobster bakes, among other fair-weather activities. But Maine can be a great getaway in winter as well. Skiers will love the rural town of Rangeley and scenic Saddleback Mountain where there is excellent Alpine and cross-country skiing, as well as shopping in little stores filled with everything from books to items made by Native Americans. For the latter, don’t miss the charming Nowetah’s American Indian Museum and Store in nearby New Portland where you’ll find lovely handmade items and a knowledgeable shopkeeper and museum curator in Nowetah herself. It’s definitely worth the trip.

The Rangeley Lake Chamber of Commerce will be happy to help you plan a getaway to this area (www.rangeleymaine.com).

Or, you might visit the Sebago Lake region and ski at Shawnee Peak (shawneepeak.com),  a great family spot.

Or, if coastal Maine calls you even in winter, consider a drive through charming Damariscotta and a drive out to the Pemaquid Peninsula, starkly beautiful now in the winter light. Pemaquid Light is never more beautiful, in my opinion, than right now in the pale winter sunshine. There is ample parking on the lighthouse grounds and no parking fee in winter.  Back in Damariscotta you’ll find a variety of small shops and excellent restaurants open throughout the year. And yes, there is lobster!

Happy holidays to my readers as the season winds down and all the best for a peaceful and happy new year.

Here in Maine, we know it simply as “The County.”  At about 6,453  square miles, Aroostook County is about the size of Connecticut and Rhode Island combined. This vast wilderness area is dotted with small towns and traversed by thousands of miles of waterways. It’s Maine at its most natural, and beautiful at any time of year.  Culturally, Aroostook County is an intriguing mix of descendants of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia families whose traditions often reflect their French heritage, descendents of early British settlers, and Americans who have come from elsewhere in the country, lured by the opportunities for a truly back-to-the-land lifestyle. The Acadian influence is very strong here and you’ll find lots of historical sites and monuments throughout the area.

A highlight for many travelers here is beautiful Mt. Katahdin. At 5,268 feet, it is Maine’s highest peak and marks the end of the Appalachian Trail.  Baxter State Park, a true wilderness park, surrounds the mountain. Be sure to visit Eagle Lake and continue on to Fort Kent where biathletes from the US and Canada train, and where the annual CAN-AM Crown Sled Dog Race  is held each winter, attracting mushers from Maine and Canada, some of whom will go on to race in the Iditarod. If you love winter,  Aroostook County will warm your heart. To find out what’s going on this winter, go to visitaroostook.com. You’ll find an entire chapter dedicated to “The County” in Backroads & Byways of New England: Drives, Day Trips & Weekend Excursions. 

 

There’s still time before the snow flies to visit one of Maine’s most scenic areas, the lovely Schoodic Peninsula and the villages of Down East. To get there, begin by taking I-295 North from Portland to Brunswick, then travel Route 1 North to Ellsworth.

Lumber trucks rumbling by as you near Ellsworth are a reminder that Maine’s vast woods lie just to the north. Consider a stop at Helen’s for coffee and their famous pie before continuing on to Winter Harbor, one of the state’s most scenic spots. I love the Winter Harbor 5&10 where you can find all kinds of stuff you had no idea you needed. At this time of year the tourist crowds are gone and you can enjoy this pretty town just as the locals do.

From Winter Harbor, turn east on Route 186 and follow the signs to Acadia National Park.  That’s right — a small portion (about a 6-mile driving loop) of the park is here on the mainland. You may well have it all to yourself, so if it’s not too cold, it’s a great chance to get out and walk in the scenic woods.

While you’re in the area, also visit the pretty little towns of Prospect Harbor and Corea. Then leave the Schoodic Peninsula and head toward Machias, stopping first at Jonesport and Beals Island for a look at fishing villages that seem untouched by time. Then it’s on to Machias, site of the first naval engagement of the American Revolution. You’ll find lots of historic buildings in this area and lots of friendly people eager to tell you about their town. Keep in mind that many historic sites and restaurants keep seasonal hours from now through spring, so it’s always wise to call ahead. Bundle up and enjoy late autumn Down East!

This was not the best year for foliage viewing anywhere in New England because of the rainy and warm fall. Still, this period between the end of leaf-peeping and the first snowfalls can be a great time to visit anywhere in the 6-state area. For example,  the crowds are gone from Quechee Gorge in Vermont,  making it easier to explore this natural phenomenon known as Vermont’s Little Grand Canyon. You can stop at pull-offs along Route 4 for a quick look, but better still is the walk into the gorge from the Quechee Gorge Visitor Center along a forest trail lined with pines and hemlocks.  Quechee State Park encompasses the gorge. The water rushes clear and cold, birds chatter overhead, and all in all, this is a nice time to visit. (vtstateparks.com/htm/queechee.htm)

While you’re in the area, stop at the Vermont Institute of Natural Science Nature Center (VINS), home to eagles, hawks, and other raptors that have sustained injuries that make it impossible for them to return to the wild. (vinsweb.org)

Another must-stop is Woodstock with its picturesque village green–one national magazine has called Woodstock the prettiest small town in the country–and its all-around, all-American look. You’ll find the expected, such as farmers’ markets, and the surprising, such as five bells cast in the Paul Revere foundry–the most Paul Revere bells in any one location in the country.

For a great place to stay and/or dine in the area, check out the Woodstock Inn & Resort — lovely rooms, a cozy bar, and terrific food in the Red Rooster Dining Room. (woodstockinn.com) I also like the Easy Street Cafe and Restaurant in nearby Waitsfield for casual meals. (easystreetmarket.com) Nice people, too — when I inadvertently left my jacket behind, I called to see if they’d found it and they offered to mail it back. It reached home before I did.  Now that’s good service!

Next time I want to share the delights of Bennington and Brattleboro and then it’s on to the charms of Maine in late fall and winter.

If antiques call your name, consider a drive along New Hampshire’s Antique Alley, beginning at the Lee Traffic Circle. Along this 22-mile stretch, you’ll find a great assortment of antiques (and yes, occasionally some junque) .  I especially like T. Berries Antiques and Primitives, Parker-French Antique Center, and Parker-French West Antique Center, all in Northwood, but be sure to check out the many other antiques shops along the route. The nearby Deerfield Fair takes place from Sept. 9-Oct. 2.  It’s a great family event, with something to appeal to all ages. Here’s a link for information: www.deerfieldfair.com  Also in the area is the University of New Hampshire at Durham. There’s also something going on at the campus most of the time and if you’re traveling with a potential college student,  fall is an excellent time to introduce him or her to the college scene. The gorgeous campus will encourage any high school junior or senior to hit the books, and Thompson Hall (locally known as T-Hall) in the middle of campus  is beloved by antiques enthusiasts and architecture buffs. www.unh.edu

Happy traveling. The leaves will soon be turning and New England will once again glow brightly.